poop

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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 11th, 2023

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  • the Arr apps will automate downloads but you can go into their ui’s manually for overriding things when needed (like replacing a bad copy of a TV show for example), jellyseer/overseer handles requesting and adding new shows/movies to be monitored from a simple webapp that you would host on the server and give them a shortcut to on their devices homepage.

    I’d go with a 12th gen or newer intel cpu, something small and entry level is more than enough like a 12100 or 12400, we just want the igpu to handle the occasional transcode, 16gb of ram, a cache SSD or two in a mirror, and a decent stack of HDDs of your choice, the OS can be anything you want but I suggest going with something NAS focused like unraid, openmediavault or truenas (jellyfin is not officially supported on truenas but it does work). if it’s a new build from scratch for long term archival of high quality media i’d start with at least 6 HDDs, with one for parity, if you can budget for 20tb drives for example that gives you a spacious 100tb of useable space with the ability for any one disk to fail without any data loss. you can then build that into a normal ATX PC case.

    You can use windows or any flavour of linux but you will be doing more work to make them work properly, where the above solutions are more plug and play.

    I would make sure their hardware is capable of playing as many file formats and codecs directly as possible though, when you get into hosting 4K media, particularly for full fat UHD Bluray rips, you will find apps built into TVs or lower end streaming boxes just cant do it and the server has to chug through transcoding on the fly, the igpu can do it just fine, but you should try to avoid it for maximum performance and image quality, so perhaps budget for an nvidia shield or something.


  • Plenty of players still don’t support AV1, though with a modern gpu you can brute force transcoding it on the fly.

    I have a jellyfin test server running an an intel n95 and it can easily handle a couple of 4k AV1 to H265 transcoded streams on it’s own with decent image quality, but it struggles with 3 if the bitrates are too high. still, it’s more complexity than is needed considering AV1 only saves a small amount of space over a good H265 encode which are ubiquitous on the net.





  • For maximum compatibility with all services you are limited in your choices due to DRM licence requirements.

    You can mostly decrapify android based boxes via ADB to strip out much of the bloat, strip most of the telemetry entirely then block the rest in your firewall, and replace the launcher with a super barebones one like Flauncher but it will never be 100% perfect.

    If you must be in full control of what is on the device and what it is doing, a small, low powered miniPC (intel n100 is a good chip for basic AV for example, 4k 10bit with perfect H265 and AV1 decoding) and use the operating system of your choice, but you are then limited in what you can stream via browser or third party apps, often in nowhere near full quality, again this is due to licencing and drm.

    The best option is to avoid streaming services altogether and download your own content, then use an offline player like kodi or a server/client solution like Jellyfin (a free and open alternative to plex, with most of the base features well implemented) to play it.


  • I have an Onyx Boox tablet and use ubooquity as an ebook OPDS server on my unraid box at home, it has an online reader that’s pretty good, but I just download the ebook file to local storage and use the much better reader built into the system. I’m a slow reader so I dont have to do it often.

    I haven’t really found a third party reader that is e-ink optimised and can seamlessly integrate an OPDS server. I’d like to find one, particularly if it has syncing between devices as I also use a foldy phone as my main device so it seems some use as a reader sometimes.

    I also self host a huge archive of manga in Komga, and access that on the tablet and phone via a tachiyomi fork, it handles e-ink optimisation pretty well. It also doesn’t sync between devices but if I use the komga web reader it does, it’s just a bit power hungry on the Boox and has no offline functionality so I just manually keep in sync which isn’t that hard.







  • The AI upscaling isn’t magic, it’s just a decent algorithm to get the best out of lower res content. tuned properly and combined with a TV properly configured to not oversharpen everything it looks excellent but is best left at the lowest setting.

    My findings after using a 2019 shield pro since launch (also decrapified via ADB, and running projectivy) is that it is way too aggressive most of the time on the medium and high settings, leading to heavy artifacting and unnatural looking edges. for live action 720p and 1080p it looks fantastic on low and sometimes medium, but often over-sharpened on high depending on the content of the footage on high, for animation it looks down right deepfried meme sharpened sometimes unless you set it to low.

    It cant make new detail where there was none before (it’s not anywhere near the same tech used in high end GPUs like DLSS), its just a smarter, more content aware smoothing and sharpening filter, you can turn it on and off and bring up a side-by-side to see how it is processing the content to help you tune it and also to dial in your TVs settings to suit. if you use resolution switching in plex it will not be active by the way, that will force the shield to output 1080p and the TV handles the upscale at that point, so turn that off if you want to use the shields scaler.

    on 1080p high bitrate content (bluray rips) it looks great, again usually on low or medium, high is too much most of the time, it gets very close to a native 4k rip of the same source if the source is a bit softer to start with, like many films with 2k intermediate masters where the advantages of 4k aren’t fully utilised. Native 4k (some higher end films, many high budget tv shows, high value youtube channels etc) still look significantly better at true 4k than AI upscaled 1080.

    So set the shield to Ai Low and set your TVs sharpness to zero or very low (mine is on 5 out of 100 for example in its movie preset, every one is different of course), there are calibration and test patterns built into projectivy (great feature!) you can use to tune motion smoothing, colours and contrast in SDR, HDR10 and DV as well as detail test patterns for upscaler and sharpness tuning so use them for the best experience.

    One thing to note about the instructions on the website you linked for decrapifying via ADB, on the latest firmwares 9.1.1 and newer some of those commands will crash the shield, so go through them one by one rather than running the one line all in one, go through each line and if it forces a reboot, wait for it to come back and just go onto the next command. it wont do any damage but you have to skip a couple of lines to get it to work.


  • The UI is definitely better than it used to be, but nodered can do some more powerful stuff like pulling the html of a devices web ui and parsing data straight from the page when there’s no API to use for example. I used to do that for a solar inverter at my last house.

    Now I use it to control my AV switcher that distributes video through the house, it has no native homeassistant integration and only supports things like control4 and RTI so I implemented my own control using their REST API and hooked it all up to buttons and selectors in homeassistant. works great.

    Also my home theatre receiver has a homeassistant integration but its terrible, so again, I’ve manually implemented the tcp controls in nodered.



  • With Google domains transferring to Squarespace I’ll be transferring my one remaining domain with them to something else soon enough.

    I already moved all of my other domains over to a local provider I use for work that has treated me well, but this one last google domain address has my self hosted services on it and I was using some features that I didn’t want to have to transfer so I kept it with google. I was using their ddns service too but my IP is now sticky (effectively static but can change in some rare circumstances) and it has only changed once in the last 3 years so I think I’ll just manually manage the A records if needed until I either go fully static or use a third party ddns provider. I also use email aliasing to use me@mydomain with gmail.


  • I have several media libraries so I set up file flows to only perform compression based on a few specific rules. I never used to compress, but 2 years ago I ran out of space and had no money to upgrade disks, so I started compressing, intending for it to be temporary until I could add space. but it became part of my servers automatic setup and it works great.

    TV show episodes between 3 and 5gb that aren’t already H265 get compressed with RF21 H265, but files over 5gb get RF22. only files older than 6 weeks get compressed to give people a chance to watch them in original quality. the compression flow also includes making a stereo aac downmix audio track for added compatibility. so anything that is already H265 or low bitrate is left untouched to avoid unnecessary compression.

    Movies get a similar treatment and H264 files under 5gb are ignored, 5-20gb gets RF21 and 20gb plus gets RF22. All of this is done with 10bit H265 as it tends to look a little better. the amount of compression I;m doing is pretty small, a 3gb TV show for example might end up being 2gb or so, and a 30gb movie will usually end up around 12-15gb at most. I could push harder, particularly for movies but I don’t see a need as i’ve saved 13TB so far with this setup.

    If sonarr/radarr download new versions of something (a TV show gets released on bluray for example) it will go back into the loop and get compressed again, but now it will be a higher quality.

    4K shows and movies are always left untouched, they are in a separate library and are only accessible to certain clients.